1710 Chapters
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Medium 9781628873207

THE SAVVY TRAVELER

Schwam, Diana K. FrommerMedia ePub

The St. Charles streetcar.

Before You Go

Tourist Offices

New Orleans French Quarter: Visitor Information Center, 529 St. Ann St., New Orleans, LA 70116. ☎ 504/568-5661. Vieux Carré Police Station, 334 Royal St. ☎ 504/658-6080.

New Orleans Uptown: New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau, 2020 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, LA 70130. ☎ 800/672-6124 or 504/566-5011; www.neworleanscvb.com. The New Orleans Multicultural Tourism Network also operates out of the same location (☎ 504/523-5652; www.soulofneworleans.com). Note that there are many other “Tour Information” storefronts, offices, and kiosks around town, but they are for-profit businesses that sell tours.

The Best Times to Go

Traditional seasons don’t exist in southern Louisiana. (A favorite T-shirt shows icons for Mardi Gras, crawfish, sno-balls, and football to represent winter, spring, summer, and fall.) Truth is, New Orleans offers two extremes: a hot, humid summer (Apr–Nov) and a relatively mild winter (Dec–Mar).

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Medium 9781574414875

FORT MASON

B. W. Aston and Donathan Taylor The University of Chicago Press ePub

Fort

Mason

Upon leaving Menard head east along Texas Highway 29 to Fort Mason, located on a hill south of Mason.

Mason grew up around the fort and became the county seat in 1861. Mason County was created on January 22, and organized on August 2, 1858. It is said that the first settlers who drifted into the region in 1846 were from John 0. Meusebach’s settlement in Fredericksburg. Because the settlers were beyond the protection of government troops, Meusebach negotiated a treaty with the Comanches to allow his settlers to live in peace. Unfortunately the peace did not last, and the settlers were soon demanding protection.

Fortunately, the United States Army was already developing a plan to establish a chain of forts to provide protection across the Texas frontier. During the 1850s, as settlers began to move into central Texas, an ever-increasing need arose for armed protection against Indian attacks in the region. To this end, the United States army established the forts at approximately fifty-mile intervals to provide a network of defense for the civilian communities. Fort Mason was one of the posts which provided this service.

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Medium 9781628873856

3 The Best Neighborhood Walks

Olson Donald; Olson Donald FrommerMedia ePub

Tanner Springs Park in the Pearl District.

Downtown Portland

Downtown Portland is surprisingly compact and manageable. Busy as it may be, it’s still possible to walk from one end of the central downtown core to the other in 30 minutes or less. Along with office and government buildings, downtown is home to Oregon’s largest university (Portland State) as well as plenty of shops, cafes, restaurants, and cultural venues. Alternatives to walking or biking are the MAX light rail, buses, or the streetcar. START: Streetcar at SW 11th & Clay, bus: 6, 43, 45, 55, 58, or 68.

❶ ★★ The Old Church. Built of wood in an ornate style known as Carpenter Gothic, this Victorian beauty started as a Presbyterian church in 1883, making it one of the oldest buildings in the Pacific Northwest. Today it’s owned by a nonprofit organization and hosts concerts, lectures, and other public events. Many of the original architectural features have been preserved, including hand-carved fir pews and built-in umbrella racks. N 15 min. 1422 SW 11th Ave. ☎ 503/222-2031. www.oldchurch.org. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm. Self-guided tours are free; admission varies by scheduled event.

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Medium 9781628873344

3 EXPLORING YELLOWSTONE

Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan FrommerMedia ePub

3

Exploring Yellowstone

Get used to the idea right now: Yellowstone is a colossal park, and you’d never see everything here if you tried for a lifetime. Just embrace the fact that anything you choose to do while you’re here will be fascinating, wondrous, and 100-percent worth your time. Whether you go off in search of wolves and bears, tour the geyser basins, hike the trails, or cruise the park roads, Yellowstone is guaranteed to blow your mind.

Grand Loop Road, the 154-mile, figure-eight road looping through the heart of the park, connects most of the major and minor attractions, and you’re bound to spend some time cruising it. But stop frequently and get out of the car: Exploring the park’s highlights and, even better, getting out into the backcountry on a hiking trail will enrich your trip by leaps and bounds.

You could visit Yellowstone for a single day—and if that’s your only option, by all means, take it—but you need a minimum of 3 days to really get a feel for the place. A week or more is even better. Hit up the must-sees, such as Old Faithful, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Mammoth terraces, Lamar Valley, and Yellowstone Lake, but also to check out some of the lesser-known but still incredible destinations. Attend a ranger-led program or sign up for a class with Yellowstone Forever for an in-depth experience. Consider spending a night under the stars, either in a drive-in park campground or deep in the backcountry. The farther you go from the road, the more solitude you’ll enjoy, and the more Yellowstone’s wild heart will be revealed to you.

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Medium 9781628872880

18 FAVORITE MOMENTS

Christie Pashby FrommerMedia ePub

A hiker admires the scenery along the Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit.

18 Favorite Moments

Banff has been drawing visitors to the Canadian Rocky Mountains for more than a century. They’re drawn primarily to nature and the peace of the wilderness. It’s not necessarily hip (although Banff has trendy restaurants), and it’s certainly nothing new. Banff is dependable yet surprising, a place to stretch yourself physically and reward yourself mentally. The following are some of my favorite experiences in Canada’s premier mountain wilderness.

❶ Gazing at the peaks from the top of Sulphur Mountain. It’s the easiest summit in the Canadian Rockies. Take the 8-minute gondola ride to the top of Sulphur Mountain, then walk the elevated 1km (2⁄3-mile) boardwalk to Sanson Peak, a truly jaw-dropping lookout. Six mountain ranges are displayed beneath you. There’s a new restaurant and impressive interpretive displays at the top. Hardcore hikers can hike up the 5.3km (3.3-mile) switchback trail, and then reward their knees by riding the gondola down. See p 13, ❷.

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Medium 9781907099557

HYÈRES, THE GOLDEN ISLANDS AND THE MASSIF DES MAURES

Michelin Michelin ePub

Hyères, The Golden Islands and the Massif des Maures

When most people think of the French Riviera, they imagine sunbathing on secluded beaches, discovering local crafts in the cobblestone streets of historic villages and partying in glitzy clubs surrounded by celebrities. And that’s exactly what visitors to the Golden Islands of Hyères and the Maures Massif will find. This part of the Mediterranean coastline is an Eden-like paradise of unspoilt islands and sandy beaches framed by forested mountains. Chic resorts full of luxury yachts share a decidedly Provençal spirit with tiny perched villages that haven’t changed in centuries. And while humans have made their mark with their lush gardens, Belle Époque mansions, imported palm trees and ancient forts, the natural beauty of the region has been carefully protected from the unchecked development plaguing less fortunate corners of the Côte d’Azur.

Highlights

1 Hire a boat for the day to visit The Golden Islands, a world away from the glitz of the French Riviera

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Medium 9781628870282

10. The Best Day Trips & Excursions

Mark Baker FrommerMedia ePub

Karlštejn is far and away the most popular Prague day trip—for both city residents and visitors. It’s an easy 40-minute ride out on the train, and the quaint village, with its gingerbread-style houses guarded over by an enchanted-kingdom castle, is a welcome antidote to the big city. The surrounding countryside is lovely and unspoiled. Plan on a leisurely day of strolling along the town’s main road, popping in at the numerous gift shops and pubs as you make your way slowly up to the castle.

 

Hrad Karlštejn. They don’t come much more majestic than Karlštejn Castle, a high-Gothic beauty that dates from the middle of the 14th century (although much of the exterior was restored and embellished in the 19th century). The castle was built on orders of Charles IV to protect what were then the coronation jewels of the Holy Roman Empire. The jewels were later moved to Prague Castle during the turbulent 17th century (where they sit today under lock and key), leaving Karlštejn Castle pretty much empty. Even if you’re not that into castles, it’s still fun to make the climb up here for the fabulous views. There are two main tours on offer. Tour 1 is quicker and cheaper, and includes a nice overview of highlights like the Imperial Palace and Royal Bedroom. But it omits the real treasure: the jewel-studded Chapel of the Holy Rood, with its 2,000 precious and semiprecious inlaid stones. The chapel visit comes only with Tour 2, but the catch is you have to book that one in advance. If you have the time and interest, it’s worth the effort. Note that Tour 2 is only offered from May to October. 2 hr. with tour, 1 hr. without. Karlštejn. 224-497-492 (call to reserve Tour 2). www.hradkarlstejn.cz. 270 Kč (Tour 1, includes guide), 300 Kč (Tour 2, includes guide). May–Sept Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; Oct–Dec Tues–Sun 9am–3pm; Mar–Apr 9am–3pm. Closed Jan–Feb.

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Medium 9781628872064

7 OLD WESSEX: THE BEST OF HAMPSHIRE, WILTSHIRE, DORSET & SOMERSET

Stephen Brewer FrommerMedia ePub

Stonehenge, Britain’s most important prehistoric monument.

The Regency charms of Bath, the prehistoric mysteries of Stonehenge, and the monumental architecture of Salisbury: These are all found in England’s oldest counties. The kingdom of Wessex, England’s precursor, was ruled from Winchester. A tour of this part of southern England leads you gently from London’s coattails to the rural peace of tiny villages and serene, idyllic isolation.

Regal Bath achieved fame and fortune twice in its history, first as a spa in Roman times, then thanks to the Georgian builders of the elegant Royal Crescent. That most English of traditions, afternoon tea has been big in Bath for centuries, and is paired here with a Sally Lunn or Bath bun. Avebury and Stonehenge date back to prehistoric times, long before the Romans invaded Britain. Cathedrals in the small cities of Salisbury and Wells are as close to the Gothic ideal as you’ll find in England, and the fan vaults at Sherborne Abbey showcase medieval architectural genius.

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Medium 9781628872422

THE SAVVY TRAVELER

Gavin Thomas FrommerMedia ePub

Before You Go

Government Tourist Offices

USA: DTCM (Dubai Tourism and Commerce Marketing), 10th floor, 215 Park Ave. S., New York, NY 10003; ☎ 212-575-2262; www.visitdubai.com.

UK: DTCM, Ste. 201–206, 4th floor, Nuffield House, 41–46 Piccadilly, London W1J 0DS; ☎ 020-7321-6110; www.visitdubai.com.

The Best Time to Go

The best time to visit the Gulf is from November to March. Temperatures during these months are pretty per fect: a pleasant Mediterranean heat, never too oppressive (and sometimes surprisingly chilly after dark). Don’t be surprised if there’s the occasional rain shower, with heavier downpours and even the occasional thunderstorm not uncommon. By contrast, the months from mid-April to September/October are almost completely dry but scorchingly hot. These months are okay for lying under a parasol sipping fruit juice or going shopping in air-conditioned malls, but it’s difficult to do anything more strenuous. Daytime temperatures often exceed 40°C (104°F) and remain high even after dark.

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Medium 9782067197558

Saarbrücken

Michelin Michelin ePub

Frankfurt am Mainaa

Germany’s financial and commercial capital, Frankfurt is characterised by a forest of skyscrapers in its centre, filled with international companies, government organisations and banks. Some of the world’s biggest trade shows, including the famous Frankfurt Book Fair, take place in high-tech halls near the airport, the largest and busiest on the continent. But Frankfurt isn’t all business. Join the locals in the traditional cider taverns, visit Goethe’s birth house or take in the stellar exhibits in the string of museums hugging the south bank of the Main River.

=     Population: 643 000

i      Info: Lobby of Hauptbahnhof (main train station). t(069) 21 23 88 00. www.frankfurt.de.

Ñ   Location: Two major autobahns join near Frankfurt: The A3 (Köln–Nuremburg) and the A5 (Karlsruhe). The city is 2hrs from Köln and 2hrs 30min from Nuremburg.

õ   Parking: Garages are located throughout the city. Visit www.frankfurt.de for specific locations and fees.

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Medium 9781628871487

9 VALENCIA & THE COSTA BLANCA

Harris, Patricia FrommerMedia ePub

Valencia is known for its rich food culture.

Spain’s third-largest city, Valencia is a lyrical metropolis with world-class architecture, a literal river of museums and parks, excellent beaches, and great food. In fact, it is the gastronomic touchstone for the entire country. The Moors introduced rice to Europe here, and Valencia combined it with the vegetables and legumes of its fertile alluvial plain, the shellfish of its coast, and the rabbits and snails of its gardens to give the world paella.

VALENCIA

Geography is destiny in Valencia. With the easternmost sheltered harbor on the central Iberian coast, it became a stepping-stone from North Africa to central Spain and back during the Moorish occupation. El Cid prevailed against the Moors here—and they recaptured the strategic port by driving his successors back into the hills. A millennium ago, the city changed hands with staggering frequency. Between container ships shuttling to and from China and petroleum tankers (there are nearly four dozen refineries in or near Valencia), the port is still Valencia’s lifeblood. Yet industry is so sequestered and clean that visitors only see it if they bicycle along the coast to L’Albufera (see “Side Trip from Valencia,” p. 301).

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Medium 9781628872064

13 THE LAKE DISTRICT

Stephen Brewer FrommerMedia ePub

A Lake District panorama.

Little wonder this compact region is high on just about everyone’s list of favorite spots. The tallest mountain and largest lake in England are here, and that’s just the beginning. Shimmering little lakes, dramatic mountain valleys, craggy peaks, and welcoming stone villages comprise a landscape that has captivated travelers since the Romantic poets rhapsodized about the Lakes in the early 19th century. Ever since, travelers have beaten a path here to walk in the hills, boat on the waters, and just take in the magnificent ­valley-and-peak scenery.

The Lake District retreats of some of Britain’s great artistic lions—­William Wordsworth’s cottage, Beatrix Potter’s farm, John Ruskin’s manor—are big attractions, too, putting a fine polish on all the natural beauty. Every year more than 16 million visitors venture into the Lake District, where more than 885 square miles are protected as the Lake District National Park, helping preserve the hills, mountains, forests, and lakes in some semblance of their pristine beauty and serenity.

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Medium 9781574415094

7. John's Creek Rodeo

John R. Erickson University of North Texas Press PDF

John's Creek Rodeo

-

61

settled for a bath instead. I lay down in the middle of the creek and parted the waters with my head, surrendering my body to the tickle of passing minnows and water striders, while a few yards upstream my partner washed himself as methodically as a cat. It was very peaceful lying there in the water and listening to the gobble of wild turkeys in the distance.

About an hour later, refreshed and ready for a calm unhurried ride to Ed Brainard's place, we climbed on our horses and headed east. When we came to a pasture gate, I got down to open it since Bill had the mule in tow. Just as I had gotten back into the saddle, Dobbin the mule spooked at something, exactly what we shall never know. He took a few little hop steps forward and then began to buck. In the process he got the halter rope fouled around

Suds's hindquarters, and an instant later Suds had joined the rodeo.

All at once, Bill was in a bad position. In his left hand he held the reins of a bucking horse-and Suds wasn't just humping up his back; he was bucking-and in his right hand, the halter rope of a bucking mule. He might have been able to ride out one or the other, but with both animals working on him at the same time, he was doomed. Dobbin bucked south and Suds bucked north, and, still hanging on, Bill split the difference between them. I saw the trouble and tried to ride into the fray to take the mule, but Dollarbill began to pitch and I had my own problems to worry about.

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Medium 9781628872927

9 THE BEST LODGING

Jewers, Jack FrommerMedia ePub

The Shelbourne Hotel.

Lodging Best Bets

Most Historic Bedroom

★★★ The Shelbourne $$$$ 27 St. Stephen’s Green (p 146)

Best Aparthotel

★★ The Merchant House $$$ 8 Eustace St. (p 145)

Best Temple Bar Hideaway

★★ The Clarence $$$ 6–8 Wellington Quay (p 142)

Best City Center Bargain

★★ Harding Hotel $$$ Copper Alley, Fishamble St. (p 144)

Most Friendly Hotel Cat

★ Aberdeen Lodge $$$ 53–55 Park Ave., Ballsbridge (p 140)

Best Suburban Charmer

★★★ Ariel House $$$ 50–54 Lansdowne Rd., Ballsbridge (p 140)

Best High-End Bargain

★★ The Gresham $$$ 23 O’Connell St. (p 144)

Best for Fashionistas

★★ The Morrison $$$ 8 Lower Ormond Quay (p 146)

Best for Shopaholics

★★★ The Westbury $$$$$ Grafton St. (p 147)

Most Imaginative Restoration

★★ Westin $$$$ Westmoreland St. (p 148)

Best Out-of-Town Retreat

★★★ The White Cottages $$ Balbriggan Rd., Skerries (p 148)

North Dublin Lodging

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Medium 9781628873245

5 FORT WORTH

Janis Turk FrommerMedia ePub

5

FORT WORTH

by Janis Turk & Alexis Flippin

Living in the shadow of its big-city sibling has never been easy for Fort Worth, especially since big brother Dallas is a flashy celebrity, an urban-cowboy oasis known worldwide—thanks to that ’70s-era namesake TV show. And if suffering second billing weren’t bad enough, Fort Worth and Dallas are often lumped together as the “DFW Metroplex”—even though the two cities are really quite different. It hardly seems fair for Fort Worth to forever play second fiddle to Dallas, particularly because many visitors actually like it better than Big D. Even if you come to the Dallas area with little time to spare, Fort Worth—laid-back, historic, friendly, and surprisingly progressive—is absolutely worth a visit. Explore Fort Worth on its own, and you’ll find a place that exudes a quiet confidence and sense of comfort, traits often missing in glitzy Dallas.

In fact, even though it’s only about an hour from Big D on I-35W, this attractive city has plenty for Dallasites to envy (including a 2011 Rose Bowl title for local football heroes the TCU Horned Frogs). It is probably the most authentically Texan city in the state. Long known as “Cowtown”—a sobriquet that the city has shied away from, given its newfound sophistication—Fort Worth still revels in its role as the gateway to the West; the mythic qualities of the American West, the wide-open spaces and even grander dreams, remain palpable here. Yet it turns out this cowboy town with a rough-and-tumble past has a remarkably sophisticated and arts-minded soul.

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